How To Dimension & Flatten Rough Lumber By Hand – Bailey Line Life #12

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How To Dimension & Flatten Rough Lumber By Hand – Bailey Line Life #12 Video

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How To Dimension & Flatten Rough Lumber By Hand – Bailey Line Life #12 Video Transcript

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in this video I want to answer some questions that a previous video have generated and that’s about getting boards to be the same thickness so if you remember but I planed this rough board by hand and I showed you how to make it flat and true as well as smooth this side used to look kind of like this side I did that one transformation with this hand plane and I’m going to give that plane again by then if you want to playing both sides of the board you want to do the same thing we did before for measuring and assessing and making the rough face flat but there’s one other thing you need to do because you’ll want to have that board a consistent thickness all around so consistent thickness from one end to the other on this board and probably a consistent thickness with other boards that you’re going to be planing for the project so the first thing to understand is that rough lumber can be amazingly inconsistent in thickness if you’ve ever seen a sawmill at work you’ll realize that it’s a pretty coarse tool a great big blade you know log going through the carriage supporting the log can move maybe the blade doesn’t run all that true it is as I said a very coarse tool and part of the coarseness shows up in inconsistent thickness what I want to do is I want to plane this board as thick as I can while retaining consistent thickness everywhere so that means I have to find the thinnest part of the board and then work from that for my initial measurements I’m going to use this six inch ruler here this is a wonderful little ruler I’ve had it for about thirty years and look at how crisp those lines are this machinists tool it’s made in Japan they’re not fooling around and it’s it’s just been terrific I’m just gonna be measuring the width of the board so here that’s one in 1516 so pretty thick here it’s just a smidge under one in seven eighths I think this is the narrowest end the thinnest in just from the looks of it and yeah it’s just one in three quarters this bark here I’m going to ignore I’m not going to try to get playing this board down to the point where I get rid of the bark because I would be planing off a good portion of the board but if I was actually you know this for a project I’d plane it flat and true and then I would cut it to width here maybe not on this whole length but just where I needed to don’t let’s just take a look here this this is this is still thick 1 1 in 7 8 and then over here that’s our magic number this board is only one in 5/8 inches thick right at this spot so if we want a consistent board segment we’ve got a plane down to the thinnest part and that’s one in five eighths so my job now is to take this combination square set it to set it to one in five eighths and then use it to mark a line all around the perimeter of the board so on all on all four sides that would be my guide for planing a I’m gonna make it just a smidge less than one in five eighths because it’s it’s only one in five eighths there and I want the whole barn to be nice and smooth it’s not just enough to make the board smooth we need to make it true so in addition to following these these lines I’m going to be checking to make sure that the surface is not twisted now that it’s not crowned all the while as I bring it down to make things smooth now unlike the last time I did this I’m gonna have to be removing it but fair enough what I mean the reason I’m removing this much wood here is because I have to because that’s pretty much all I have at this far end so that’s kind of an added dimension to what we’re working on we’re making it smooth we’re making it true and in some cases we’re going to need to remove a lot of wood in order to get the consistent thickness now the main thing the main thing is that I do not plain off these lines because that’s the only reference I’ve got so I’m going to be maintaining this pencil line at all costs so this operation is going to be a little bit more exercise than the last one because I have to remove Stansell wood and once again because I’m starting with a rough surface I need to increase the bite of the plane a little bit as weel is what does this here I mean if you use flames you know all about this but turning the wheel this way pushes the blade out more and turning it back pulls it back in a bit I think that’s about right let’s see where’s right as they work I’m I’m working to bring the wood down to the line a little bit above the line all around the perimeter and that’s going to leave some high spots in the middle and so I will plane those down to match what I’ve done on the sides but right now I’m just kind of respecting the pencil marks yeah I’m pretty close to a line in this middle area yeah that’s about as close as I want to get there looking down the line pretty often every three or four strokes now now that you’re closer yeah all of this before I don’t want to overshoot and have a low spot but I also have some work to do for people experience might over this part they could just draw a new eye slightly lower line yeah you can do that you be making more work for yourself and you’d also be getting a thinner board but it’s not the end of the world really coming down to the wire there so I really want to take on too much more I’m working to the lines right now I’m not too concerned about the middle but if I get the lines all correct all the way around and then I bring the middle part down to the lines then everything should work fine especially considering that these lines are referenced from this first face that I did which I know is true so I gotta count on the lines not just to give me a consistent thickness but also that they’re truly flat I’m pretty pretty true in this area yeah I’m getting down to the point where I’m not gonna play on the perimeter anymore gonna see if I have any crowning do you a little bit there in just a tiny bit it’s what I would expect though because if I’m playing into the line and not paying too much attention to the center at this stage eventually I’m going to have to pay attention to the center and that’s kind of the time now right I didn’t care about them before but I hear about them so shouldn’t five-eighths was what I was shooting for yeah there’s a boat maybe 1/32 of an inch of deviation that’s not bad it’s not bad I could get it closer though if you look here you see I can take a little bit more off there there’s a little bit too much pencil line here the pencil line is about split that’s what I want here it’s just a smidge high yeah it’s quite close I think if I was using this for a piece of furniture I’d go over it again with a very light cut just to refine it away I’d also have to cut this board for it to remove the bark edge but but there you have it a hand playing board of consistent thickness and ready to use in projects well thank you for joining me with this video I hope you found it useful like subscribe hit the notification spell so you know when I put out new videos and check out my website it’s in the description box I have a newsletter I think you’ll love it lots of people do

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